To Who... To What?
Mood: Distracted
Listening to: Washing machine
This blog is in the process of moving to WordPress. This post can be found there.
Apologies for the long silence – things have not been all that quiet behind the scenes at Diddumsville. There's a possibility I will move (houses, not blogs) but my mind is not yet set. More on that in time.
Meanwhile, it's been a while since I've posted any Junk Shop Finds, and one of my most recent is a 'must'. In Sue Ryders, the hook nose and spooky 'ears' of this wooden owl caught my attention, and I picked it up for a closer look. On the underside of its perch is a sticker: 'Guaranteed hand made by Suffering Moses, Srinagar-Kashmir (India).' It was £2 but is one of those items that you put down, pick up, put down, step two paces away from, then whirl back to grab it. It's smooth to the touch and well-finished, and I like the look of it. When I got it home, I didn't set it down in a dusty corner and forget about it – I sat and stared at it for a long time.
I was intrigued about who or what this Suffering Moses might be; a search via Google turned up several links. It's apparently a craft shop in India owned by an artisan.
Why 'Suffering Moses?' This blog page by Jawahara Saidullah provides a clue. (I couldn't find a way of linking to the individual post, but it's there, just a little way down).
Srinagar - the eternal building site (some fascinating observations).
I feel now as though I've stumbled upon an Aladdin's lamp – there's a little bit of history and magic there. Maybe if I rub the owl three times and whisper in his ear, he'll grant me a wish or six.


Things might be quiet here for a while as things are in upheaval - nothing bad, though.
Wednesday, August 10, 2005
Suffering Moses
The 19th century essayist and poet, Matthew Arnold said, "Excellence is not common and abundant. On the contrary, as the Greek poet long ago said, excellence dwells among rocks hardly accessible, and a man must almost wear his heart out before he can reach her."
Perhaps almost wearing your heart is the cost of excellence, the price of creation.
When I was fifteen I took my first and only trip to Kashmir, not realizing that generations would grow up thinking of that enchanted place not as the paradise we did, but as a battleground.
There was this shop in Srinagar owned by this old artist/artisan who made the most exquisite papier mache, (not the stuff you get in the state emporia), delicate, multi-layered, intricate flawless pieces. He signed all his work on the bottom, in a sprawling calligraphic signature...the same name as his store, 'Suffering Moses.' His name was Moses. I had to know, had to ask him, 'Why Suffering Moses?"
He looked at me, intently, his eyes a strange shade somewhere between green and grey, the pink skin of his cheeks glowing, "Young lady. How else could I make anything beautiful? Only by suffering, right? I suffer for my art. You create nothing good if you don't suffer."
And that to me, is the relationship between excellence and suffering. Thank you Suffering Moses wherever you are.
I was happy to stumble across your post, as I had been wondering the same thing. Standing in a charity shop miles away, wondering "who's Suffering Moses? And what's the story?"
I would love more info Savaaha(at)gmail(dot)com
<img src="http://savaaha.furtopia.org/moses/_tn/IMG_0119.JPG">
more pics are at
http://savaaha.furtopia.org/moses/
they relaxed while laying down, eating and drinking on the intimate soft sofas under the canopies of the Shikara boats, drifting like in heaven on the lakes Dal and Nagin. The labyrinth of rivers with its numerous bridges took them to a hidden world; the cooling breeze in the alleys under the shadows of the majestic Chinar trees made everyone grateful. In the evening they went to the Oberoi, palace of the last Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir, to drink tea with saffron from Pampore in the garden, and admire the fabulous panorama of Dal Lake with its hundreds of characteristic houseboats made from cedar. No wonder why the Moghuls chose to build some of the worlds most spectacular gardens in exactly these surroundings.
In a silent area of Srinagar, between the old main Post Office and a colonial building that housed Grindlays Bank, lay an extraordinary shop that sold objets d'art of papier mâché and woodcarvings of walnut, as well as more common quality handicrafts. The place had a magic aura indeed. The second floor gallery was run by the mysterious and highly charismatic Moses, an old wise man, a leader of an occult religious group. His wife was surprisingly from America, and he continued a family tradition that had lasted for unknown centuries. I always went to his place on my way home from downtown. A river ran just a few steps from the front of the shop, and I had to cross it with a boat at exactly this spot to get to my house on the other side.
Moses explained how he had been trained to become a painter as a little boy at the very beginning of the 20th century; the first years he was only allowed to draw circles on paper; after that period he justifyingly added the name Suffering. He also found pleasure in simple things, and I soon learned that he collected stamps, so I used to bring him all I could find. He was not too eager to part with his best items, and he wished that potential customers of his finer works should be aware what they purchased. On several occasions I witnessed him asking certain customers to leave his shop and never return, with the explanation that they did not understand the slightest of art. I was lucky to be able to purchase some of his most outstanding items, among them a mortar and pestle in papier mâché, the outside with miniature animals in a pale green landscape, the inside with dense, whorling flowers in real gold on a cream background. Suffering Moses made it around 1915.
His son and grandson also had high quality shops just a short walk from the master himself. Eventually, I became a painter myself - perhaps driven by my subconscious, inspired by this happy time in my life.
Marius Holmby, Norway
Suffering Moses. I bought it at a garage sale for ten cents. It is a wood wall plack with irises painted on it
and lacquered over.
My parents bought it during a trip to Srinigar in 1963 when it was still safe to visit.
It was unusual, we went by car from Karachi, Pakistan over the mountains to Kashmir and stayed on a houseboat on the lake, That kind of trip would no longer be possible.
I'll try to post a photo of the carving in the future.
<img src=http://mysite.verizon.net/vze1yubz/cukoo.jpg>
I'm in the process of transferring this blog to WordPress - I'll keep this article but the URL will change at some point.
Does anyone know where in the USA you can buy such artwork? Or, is it just by chance you find it?
THE RUG IS BEAUSTIFUL BUT HAD A ORANGE AREA THAT LOOKED LIKE CRAYON. I LOVED THE RICH RED RUG AND ORANGE IS MY FAVORITE COLOR, so I said, " I can always get the big box of Crayolas and color the other side to match". I justI Googled up "Suffering Moses" 20 minutes ago. What a wonderful surprise to find all of you. Did any of you who visited see rugs? Thanks, A. M-J
:-)