Far Away From Heat And Dust
Pachmarhi begins where civilization ends. Situated amidst the mountains of Satpura Ranges in Central India, the tableland was first discovered by Captain Forsyth an Englishman. Pachmarhi is still as pristine as it was during Forsyth’s time, a vivid account of which he has written in his famous book "The Central Indian Highlands". The forests teem with big game. Bengal Tiger and Leopard, majestic Bison and the handsomely antlered Sambar, animals’ epitome of sublime strength and rare beauty roam free in this wide expanse of forests. It is Indian wildlife at its best. The bird life in Pachmarhi is little studied.
The highest point in Pachmarhi is the Chauragarh Mountain, the abode of Lord Shiva. Thousands of tridents - the symbolic weapon of Shiva - stand guard all along the way - a four thousand steps climb up to the peak and the Shiva temple there in.
The caves shelter the phallic Linga, symbolic of Lord Shiva the God of the Hindus, and some have petroglyphs as old as ten thousand years etched on their walls.
Pachmarhi excels in natural wonders and yet much remains to be discovered.
From the heat and dust of rusty towns and colorful villages on the way you finally touch Matkuli Ghat. Throughout the steep forested ascent the road twists and turns at dangerously acute and discomforting angles. Adding to the thrill the cool wind blow from the dense pristine forests around you to welcome you throughout the climb up the mountain. A euphoric calm settles down upon you in the natural undisturbed surroundings.
As you climb further you reach "Denwa Darshan". The river Denwa forms a deep torturous gorge as it cuts through the mountains. It slithers through silently like a snake, leaving all along its journey small, sandy, beautiful beaches on its banks.
The bare jagged walls of the huge mountains wrap eras of evolution in their folds and the dense forests on plateau add to the panorama. Layers of mountain ranges unfold wide on the horizon as far as your eyes can scour, the view eventually receding into nothingness.
Pachmarhi township has remained confined within limits, thanks to the cantonment. Full of quaint bazaars, hotels and restaurants the township now provides all the modern amenities. But unlike other hill resorts Pachmarhi has not become the usual over crowded hustly bustly holiday joint or an investor’s paradise, hence it is a favored India travel destination. Except for some noise in the streets of the town the rest of the resort is calm, quiet, and the landscape is a wild uninhabited primeval expanse of rugged terrain that embraces silence and holds a mystic charm.
Pachmarhi offers short friendly treks to an amateur although trekking in the deep forests is not allowed without permission. But the lucky ones do get to see the Indian tiger and other wildlife as they visit spots. The trek to the "Silver Falls" is as interesting as any trek could be. A narrow jungle trail runs through the forests it leads you through a small but steep slippery descent to a shallow cave with 10,000 years old rock paintings etched on its walls by prehistoric communities. The paintings mostly in ochre describe the life of the prehistoric man - vivid scene of prehistoric man on hunt.
Next a short trek leaden with ferns and aromatic bushes takes you to "Fairy Pool" - aptly named. A shallow pool of cool crystal clear water fed by a little fall gushing down the rocks, this pool is a travelers delight. You can take a dip in the pool or relax with your feet dangling into the cool water from numerous rocks around or shower under the fall or just picnic. The only thing you miss here are the fairies.
A short similar trek further takes you to the "Silver Fall". As you stand on the mountain outcrop a magnificent panorama unfolds. All around you are mountains and valleys covered with forests full of old grown trees towering to majestic heights. The Sun peeps through the clouds now and then, its rays penetrate through the gaps in between and cast an enchanting play of light. Sun streaked clouds their bellies full hang around the mountains indolently casting ghostly shadows on the valleys floors below. Your eyes get riveted on to the "Silver Fall" as tons of white water hurtles down 700 ft. below into a bottomless pit. The fall generates curtains of silvery mist on its way down as droplets of water hit the rocks, hence the name. Like the "Silver Fall", Pachmarhi abounds in pools and waterfalls that add to the magnificent landscape of the undulating hills and valleys.
In Pachmarhi on a rainy day you walk through the clouds high up on the mountains and as the downpour begins you take refuge under a make-shift stall of a tea seller or under a dense grove if nothing else. The experience though discomforting is nevertheless enchanting.
Apart from breath taking landscapes Pachmarhi has places of religious significance, lovely gardens, a museum and lots of wildlife for the lucky few. The best place to watch wild life is at Bori Sanctuary which is a short drive from the resort. Here you can bird watch or see wild herds of Bison and deer like Sambar and Chittal among many forms of wild life that thrive, a little luck could fetch you the sight of the Tiger or the elusive Leopard. In summers you can come across a Sloth Bear getting drunk on the alcohol laden Mahua fruit.
Pachmarhi offers solace to the vary traveler and much more. The best is to stay a little away from the township in Government owned resorts or few private ones that offer reasonably good service.
A two and half hour train ride from Jabalpur in Central India takes you to Pipariya rail station from where a one hour ride further by taxi is the Pachmarhi Resort.
